|11/20/2012 2:47:00 PM|
Bond's closet hits timeless looks
The Associated Press
|AP Photo/Sony Pictures, Francois Duhamel|
Daniel Craig is shown in a scene from the film “Skyfall.” The super spy might be 50 years old on screen but he never wants to look out of date. It’s a unique dressing challenge for a character that is simultaneously modern and timeless. Costume designer Jany Temime says her mantra for the entire wardrobe of “Skyfall” was “iconic for 2012.”
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|Vlastnik’s Menswear owner Dale Vlastnik of Peru said the shift in men’s fashion is from three to two button jacket. And getting a classic yet modern look can be easy.|
“The two-button jacket is a classic look back even before Roger Moore — to Sean Connery,” he said. “The two-button, center-vented jacket is really where it’s at and it’s being paired with neckties and a white shirt.
“There’s been a revival in guy’s dressing a little better. Not just for formal occasions, for just going out in.
“It’s a little more tailored look and it’s good for my store because we do our own alterations. Men are looking for a more European look. Baggy is out. Jackets and trousers now are more trim fitting.”
— Lifestyle editor Cynthia Rolando
NEW YORK (AP) — If he’s particular enough to like his martini shaken not stirred, James Bond probably likes his trousers trim not tight. Same goes for the tuxedo that’s formal and not fussy, and any sweater in his closet surely is cashmere and perfectly casual and cool.
Although the superspy first appeared on-screen 50 years ago, he never wants to look out-of-date. Costume designer Jany Temime says her mantra for the wardrobe of the latest Bond film, “Skyfall” was “iconic for 2012.”
It’s like she was shopping for people she knows — even if they are fictional characters — instead of creating a wardrobe for a movie, she explains.
“I didn’t follow fashion, I followed the script. But I know these characters, and I know what he or she would wear and why. I really tried to ask, ‘What would that character really buy?’” Temime said.
Suits, lots of them, and most by Tom Ford, were high on the list for Daniel Craig, who is taking his third turn as Bond and is known to favor Ford’s clothing both on-screen as Bond and in his personal life.
“In my first meeting with Daniel, he told me what he wanted: He wanted slim-fitting clothing that was easy to move (in), but I also got the feeling he wanted a slightly ‘60s look,” Temime says.
Roger Moore, who played Bond in seven films through the 1970s and ‘80s, says some of his flared trousers and wide-collared shirts wouldn’t cut it today, but some of the suits, and especially the tuxedos and dinner jackets, probably would. Unfortunately, he isn’t wearing them now. “Those outfits were made 20 or 30 years ago, and waistlines change. I did, at the time, enjoy the wardrobe, but I also developed a taste for the good food and wine Bond liked,” Moore says with a laugh.
Moore’s book “Bond on Bond” was published last month (Lyons Press), and it devotes a chapter to 007’s dapper style. Sean Connery, who played Bond first in 1962, favored skinny-lapel gray suits that hold up well over time. The same cannot be said of the terry cloth romper he wore on the set of “Goldfinger.”
Pierce Brosnan wore a British Royal Navy uniform for the role, and most Bonds don a swimsuit at some point. Athletic and sporty clothes actually pose a bit of a problem, Temime says, because they don’t look as sexy as Bond should.
Generally, though, Bond has a fairly restrained style because he doesn’t want to draw too much attention to himself.
Moore quotes Bond author Ian Fleming in “The Man With the Golden Gun,” where the clothes were described as “dark-blue single-breasted suit, white shirt, thin black knitted silk tie, and black casuals as his ‘usual rig.’”
That look came easily for the Savile Row tailors in London where Bond probably would have purchased his clothes.
By the time Brosnan took over the role in 1995, the Italian fashion house Brioni was making the suits, explains Angelo Petrucci, the label’s master tailor, although they were done in the English style with longer jackets and higher rises instead of the Roman style, which would have more tapered legs and shorter rises.
“For me, James Bond is representative of class,” Petrucci says. Bond wears so many suits, he muses, because he likes power, and that’s what men so often feel in a made-to-measure trouser and jacket. “
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